I celebrated Nowruz by myself. I was in a subway with my mother-in-law. A man was falling asleep against my shoulder. I looked at him as if to make him wake up magically. My mother-in-law caught my gaze. She giggled. I smiled back at her and looked at my watch. The spring equinox had arrived. The intercom on the subway system began in Korean, moved into Chinese, and finally English: "Next stop is Dondaemun History and Cultural Center. Please exit to your right."
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